Thursday, May 25, 2006

Strudel and Schnitzel and Leiderhosen, Oh My!

HALLSTATT, AUSTRIA -- May 25, 2006

Over breakfast, I learned that today was a special Austrian celebration -- a religious commemoration for all 8- and 9-year-old children partaking of their first communion. Unlike holidays back in the good old U.S., here there is no political underwriting to the festivities that mean, more or less, the entire workings of the town close down for the day. It´s a religious holiday.

Entire families attend church together, dressed in their traditional Austrian clothing, men wearing leiderhosen, their heads capped with feather berets... women wearing cotton dresses with tight bodices and gathered skirts, small caps keeping their locks tightly hidden away.

I took a hike with Rob to a nearby waterfall. We hiked along fields of wildflowers and pickture-book gingham houses trimmed with flowerboxes. Climbing into the mountainside thick with green, we finally arrived at a bridge taht crossed the falls. The roar of the water as it swept down the mountainside was deafening. With all the rain we´ve had in the past few weeks, the currents were unbelievably strong and loud!

We circled back around to our home base, where another trail began nearby, this one leading up a steep section of the mountain to the salt mines, Hallstatt´s most noteable claim to fame. Although posted signs and roadblocks we encountered halfway warned of falling rocks and closed off the remainder of the ´trail, we picked our way through the remains of a newly fallen tree and continued on our way.

Switchbacks led us on a dizzying upward course until finally we arrived at the top of the mountain. The views down across the lake and villages beyond were beautiful!

Back in town, I wandered along the main road again until I stumbled across a little restaurant tucked away inside a large building. Signs for "Apfelstrudel" enticed me to have a seat and enjoy a little sweet indulgence. My plate arrived, flaky strips of pastry wrapped around a thick apple filling, dusted with powdered sugar. Much thicker and slightly less sweet than good old American apple pie, this traditional Austrian treat was a perfect ending to a day of hiking among the Austrian lowlands.

I passed the evening playing card games with Rob and three girls, all European exchange students, who had checked into the hostel that afternoon. They had been studying in Vienna for the past year, and after getting some recommendations from them on what to see and do in Vienna, I decided to switch up my plans and try to stay a few extra days in Vienna... when I get there in July, that is.

~Melanie
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