From Cheese Factories to Flower Gardens: Following My Nose Through the Netherlands

DE ZAANSE SCHANS, NETHERLANDS -- May 21, 2006
(rough notes)

Back to A'dam, transfer to small town of De Zaanse Schans, a touristy little village just 17km from A'dam. Despite threatening skies, walking from train station 1 km along industrial road that smelled strongly of Gouda and Edam -- must be a cheese facotry tucked away somewhere along here! Hearing some hooplah, headed across the street where a crowd had gathered around covered outdoor cafe. Women playing drums and oompahing to the delight of onlookers.

Getting my fill, continued on foot over a busy bridge to the small little village of dZS. In the distance, along the banks of a narrow river, I could see a handful of windmills rising up from the flat land. Within the village, little shop with pewter demo. Crossed small footbridge where gingerbread houses painted in the old-world Dutch tradition, mallard-greena dn navy-blue with white or ochre trim, lined the dirt walkway.

Eventually reached a wooden shoe shop, filled with historical remnants of Holland's long tradition of clogs. From ceiling to floor, literally, along the walls were clogs of every size and color. The floor of the workshop in the back corner was covered with wood shavings and smelled of fresh sawdust.
Next to the cheese facroty, where smiling girls in vintage aprons and white hats spread wedges of house favorite cheese, including a delicious naturally smoked Gouda, on plates for visitor to gobble up. Wax-covered mounds of cheese were stacked on shelves both high and low, ranging in size from teacup saucer to car tire.

Sheep, goats, horses grazing in the pastures -- everything felt so old-world pastoral that, despite the obvious tourism angle, I left feeling like I understood a bit more of the Holland so loved by my father (who spent two years here back in the early 70's), my mother (who has not been yet, but has long loved its charm), and my sister Lorelie (who spent a year and a half here from 2003 to 2004; she had to be pried away, she loved it so much).

Back in A'dam, meet up with John. Walk the city, plate of nachos :) and later doner kebabs (first time I've had other-ethic cuisine while traveling!) Spent next 3 hours trying to find our way back to the hostel, but an enjoyable walk along quiet canals.

~Melanie