Celtic Circles and the Charming Cotswolds

STONEHENGE, AVEBURY, & THE COTSWOLDS, ENGLAND -- March 24, 2006

I caught my guided tour from the street just adjacent to Bath Abbey. The skies had been quite foreboding since the night before, when rain began to fall, and even now the gray skies continued to pelt me with the kind of rain that seems to say "I plan on sticking around for a while." Hoping for the best but expecting the worst, I boarded the small minibus, and soon eight of us were loaded and on our way.

First, I need to make a disclaimer that taking a tour is NOT generally my modus operandi, but I felt it was worth making an exception in this case. I wanted to cover an awful lot of ground in order to see Stonehenge, Avebury, and the Cotswolds. By taking this tour, I would be able to take it all in, before leaving this evening for London.

First stop was Stonehenge, the impressive circle of monoliths which stand as one of the oldest remnants of ancient civilizations in England. It is believed that each stone was shipped by boat and then dragged across miles of barren land (the wheel had not been invented yet!) to the spot where they now rest.

There are so many layers of thoughtful planning to both this site and our second stop, Avebury (16 times the size of Stonehenge, though much less known). The Druids took into consideration calendar and sun positions, so that, for instance in Avebury, at summer solstice the shadow cast from the center (male) stone forms a perfect eclipse with the primary round (female) stone, symbolizing fertility for both the fields and the beginning of another life cycle for the people. They also considered ley lines, or channels of the earth's magnetic energy which they used as links between one site and the next.

Honestly, I was disappointed with the size of Stonehenge -- I suppose I envisioned them much more massive. However, I was pleasantly surprised to find I was able to stand closer to the site than I had imagined. Stonehenge is retained by a fence, which prohibits visitors from wandering among the stones, unlike Avebury, where you are free to roam to your heart's content. And finally, being here off-season (and on a rainy day, no less) certainly made my visit here more personal. So I suppose there is something to be said for rainy days.

It was at Stonehenge that I introduced myself to a mother and daughter traveling together. The daughter was currently on a study-abroad university program, but I was absolutely blown away when she told me that she and her mom were from Harrisburg, PA!! What a small, small world! Another couple were visiting from Savannah, GA, where I had been just two weeks before visiting my brother.

En route to Avebury, we passed several thatched- roof houses, and our guide explained that these roofs, made of mud, straw, and other earthy materials lasted 300-400 years. But it didn't take long before birds, beetles, mice, and other creatures began making a home for themselves in the thatch. So you might be peacefully sleeping in the middle of the night and awaken to find a baby rodent had fallen on top of your head! It was for this reason that canopy beds were invented!

I enjoyed my wander around the stones of Avebury. It was interesting to see, as my guide pointed out, the alternating rounded and angular stones, representative of male and female counterparts. Also intriguing was the fact that much of Avebury was destroyed by the early Christians who settled here, because they found this pagan site to be offensive to their ultra-religious psyche. The rain persisted still, and the wind was at times unbearably cold. I was hanging onto a small hope that the sun might show its face before the day ended...

We made a stop at LaCocke National Trust Village for lunch in a traditional tavern and a bit of wandering. It was at the abbey here that parts of Harry Potter were filmed. Also, the BBC's rendition of 'Pride and Prejudice' was filmed here. A brief walk about was enough to transport me back in time a few hundred years and imagine a much simpler life.

Our last stop was in the Cotswolds, the rural Hansel-and-Gretel like villages interspersed among the rolling hills. As I wandered down the one street in this quaint yet breathtaking village, the rainclouds cleared away and the warm rays of afternoon sun penetrated down over the rooftops. This was the moment I had hoped for all day, and what a glorious moment it was! I passed a small, tranquil stream that meandered alongside the stone-faced gingerbread house, and thought of my grandfather, who crafted the wooden swan used in the filming of the original 'Dr. Doolittle,' which was shot here.

Too quickly, the sun vanished away behind thick gray clouds, and I found myself back in Bath. After a quick visit with Chris, I was off to the station to catch my evening bus connection to London, where surely another adventure would await...

~Melanie

Georgian on My Mind: Beautiful Bath

BATH, ENGLAND -- March 22-23, 2006

After meandering through Oxford's covered market amid hamhocks, fresh fish, and flower stands, I caught an early bus to Bath. I knew vaguely of Bath before deciding to make this a stop on my 6-day tour of England. Mostly I remembered the stories from Chaucer's Canterbury Tales, and envisioned plump old ladies with too much time on their hands scurrying around with the latest gossip. Silly, maybe, but that's what came of my English Literature education.

Actually, Bath is most well-known for the thermal baths which date back into Roman antiquity. It is famous for the gorgeous Georgian architecture of its buildings. And famous for Jane Austen, who lived here, and who crafted her long-famous novels (which Hollywood has recently discovered) here -- "Sense and Sensibility," "Emma," and most recently "Pride and Prejudice.

The bus rolled through patchy pastures, where sheep congregated on the grassy knolls and lazed about in the spotty sunshine.

Arriving two hours later, I set off on foot to explore to my heart's content before meeting up with CouchSurfing friend Christoph, currently a student of the University of Bath. The hefty pack strapped to my back made it difficult to lose track of time completely, but I wandered for hours, engrossed both in the grandeur of this city as a whole, and in the fine details that make it both visually appealing and emotion-evoking.

I crossed the Avon River by way of the covered Poultney Bridge, reminiscent of Ponte Vecchio, the famous covered bridge in Florence which crosses the Arno. I followed cobblestone streets decked with rows of Georgian-style rowhouses and shops, crafter from the buttery-yellow stone known locally as "Bath stone."

I wanted a view of Bath from a high perch and thus began ambling my way up and across winding streets and alleyways, in search of the perfect view. On my climb to the top of the town, I happened upon a graveyard, where apparently a fashion exhibition was underway. Odd juxtaposition, but it was a little unexpected treasure nonetheless.The buildings were faxcinating -- windowboxes and basement-floor gardens, lion doorknockers gilded in gold, and chimneys! So many chimneys! I meandered through the Royal Crescent and a small Botanical Garden, where I was pleasantly surprised by the sprinkling of crocuses and daffodils making an appearance.(to be continued)

~Melanie --Posted by Melanie to The World Beckons. And She Moves. at 10/11/2006 02:05:00 AM

Georgian on My Mind: Part II

(continued)

After walking the entire circumference of Bath, I finally headed down through its historic center. Suddenly, the spires of Bath Abbey punctured the sky with their intricate, lacy stonework.After a grand day of wandering, Chris and I met up and enjoyed an Indian ecletic dish -- homemade (thanks, Chris!) Pork Coconut Curry. Yum!! I've always heard that England (London, actually) has some of the world's best Indian food. Bath did not disappoint!!

My second day in Bath began with a traditional English breakfat -- fried egg, crisp bacon, and baked beans with vinegar, all served over toast. Despite the cold and relentless wind, I managed to do a fair bit of sightseeing today.

The Roman Baths were top on the list, and they were worth every one of the 13 pounds I paid for entry!! This extensive complex was built over the natural thermal springs of Bath. The Romans believed it must have religious significance because of its seemingly supernatural occurence, and dedicated it to the goddess Minerva.

Sacrificial rituals were performed by the priests, who were the only ones allowed to touch the holy waters. Even now, centuries later, the mineral waters still bubble a calming green hue, mists rising off them like fog rolling into dawn.


After exiting the baths, I crossed through the Pump Room, a sumptuous visual feast, decked in all the elegance of the Georgian era (think Jane Austen for the Rich and Famous). Astonishingly high ceilings, elongated windows and pillars, draperies, chandeliers, and a room full of patrons being service by a graceful, attentive wait staff. A string ensemble played at the head of the room, their melodies reverberating off the high ceiling above.

It was in this room that I sampled a glass of the thermal waters, which taste like the dregs from a fish barrel, but are supposed to have some kind of special restorative powers. The jury's out on whether it was worth choking it down :) but at least I can say I have done it! You know the saying, when in Rome...

While the Costume Museum was a disappointment, I thoroughly enjoyed Bath Abbey. The grandeur of the stained-glass panes, Gothic arches marching in succession from one end to the other, walls decorated with memorial stones of those I suppose were wealthy enough to keep the church going.

All in all, Bath was an absolute gem, definitely worth a couple of days to soak in its charm and beauty. And shameless plug here, because my mom's name is Georgia -- but Mom, you would LOVE it here, Georgian architecture and all!!

~Melanie

The Journey Begins

OXFORD, ENGLAND -- March 21, 2006

From my first few moments in Oxford, where I spent Day 1, I found myself enamored with this smallish but bustling town known for its colleges which rank as the oldest -- and among the best -- in the country. As my bus moved along the streets, I peeked out the windows at Gothic arches, ecru-colored stone buildings centuries old, fringed with such elegance that rock appeared as fine as lace.

Gargoyles stared at me from nearly every direction, and the cobblestone streets only added to the old-world charm of Oxford. Although the weather throughout my stay in England was sub-par, every now and again the sun showed itself. Fortunately, gloomy gray skies did not give way to rainstorms too often.

I met my Couch- Surfing friend Ryan at a nearby coffee shop, and we took a leisurely stroll through the city. I tried my first English tea and was a bit disappointed with it, to be honest. I have never been much of a tea drinker, but I have decided that England is not the best place to pick up the habit :)

Everything seemed so small in Oxford, as compared to things back home -- the houses, the living space, the cars, a typical restaurant meal. I think the only things that exceed American proportions are perhaps the English tolerance for alcohol (as Ryan can attest!), and the cost of living!! Prices listed on menus looked similar to what I would see back home, but the dollar-to-the-pound ratio was very discouraging (1GBP=1.8USD).

In case any of you plan to actually make a trip to Oxford, the colleges I most enjoyed were Christ- church and Magdalene. Each college is built with 40-foot walls surrounding a central courtyard, and finished off with ornate Gothic arches, gargoyles, and celestial spires. I know this is short and not very poetic, but believe it or not, it required a decent time investment as I am now in Morocco and adjusting to the lovely Arabic keyboards here!!Next log will detail some of my explorations in Bath, Stonehenge, and the Cotswolds... so stay tuned!

~Melanie --Posted by Melanie to The World Beckons. And She Moves. at 10/11/2006 01:28:00 AM

Swan Song

Dear Family & Friends,

I can't believe it -- the past few weeks have really flown, and I am just three days away from flying myself... to London, for starters, and Marrakech, Morocco a mere 6 days later. It's time for my adventure-of-a-lifetime to begin, and I am still partly in disbelief that this is really happening! It has been seven years in the making, and as of Monday, March 20th, at 9:25 PM, I can say that I officially believe in second chances and miracles in the making. (Actually, no need to wait for Monday -- I can say it now!)

This dream of mine to travel the world would still be only a dream, if not for the support and encouragement of those family and friends who have enabled me, with their thoughts, words, and even (Mom and Dad, I owe you for this!!) a place to stay for the past year and 9 months so that I would have the ability to save for this journey. It means everything in the world to me that I am lucky enough to be surrounded by people who care about me so much.

To all my friends, both near and far, you have brightened my days with unexpected e-mails and phonecalls, heart-to-heart talks, good cries (yes, there is definitely such a thing), hugs, and even just your smiles. It's hard to think about being so far away from everyone in my life that I care about, and I'm not quite sure yet how to handle the loneliness factor -- because I'm sure it will spring up from time to time. Knowing that any of you are only a phonecall away from anywhere in the world definitely helps! I look forward to hearing about the adventures going on in your lives -- some of you just recently experiencing parenthood for the first time, others of you getting ready to try on those shoes. Some of you preparing for other adventures -- missions, college, finding the right career, moving to new places, embarking on a new relationship, preparing to tie the knot, adjusting to married life, and dreaming and planning for your own future journeys. Please let me in on the exciting things that are happening for you, so I can share them with you!

To my brothers and sisters -- Michael, Lorelie, Natalie, Matt (my brother-in-law), Danny, and Emily -- I love you all SO much and am grateful every day to have you as my family. I hope I do you proud these next many months as I explore this amazing world. Michael, I'm sure I'll be thanking you many times over for tipping me off on the waterproof liner that we picked up at the military surplus store. Knowing that you've been on some pretty incredible foreign adventures of your own has inspired me, and I look forward to swapping stories with you when the time comes. Lorelie, I can't see a European street scene -- with all the colorful little rowhouses and canals -- without thinking about you and the year and a half you spent serving the people of the Netherlands. I am crossing my fingers big-time that you and I and the parents :) will have a chance to all be there together later this spring/summer. Natalie, you are the giver of so much laughter and smiles. You say it like it is -- which isn't always fun on the receiving end -- but it always comes from your heart, and for that reason alone, it means the world. Thank you for always believing in me. I promise I will come back with some photo art for you and Matt to hang on your walls :) Matt, I am so glad you found my sister, and I can't tell you how much I appreciate all of the words of encouragement you've given me about taking this round-the-world journey. The time has come for me to finally walk my talk! Danny, I miss you, little bro! But somehow I am comforted by the fact that for many months to come, you and I will share a somewhat unusual bond -- we'll both be living in foreign countries :) I think of you every day, and again look forward to when we're all back from our travels and we can swap stories with one another. And my little sister, Emily -- where do I start... Living at home again has had its share of challenges. But among many reasons I am grateful to have been home, one of the most important to me is that I had a chance to "grow up" with you a little, because we missed that the first time around -- you were a mere 4 years old when I went away to college. But in the past nearly 2 years, you have become more than a cherished sister, you have also become one of my dearest friends. I will miss you so much, but I promise -- I will take lots of food pictures for you! And when I get to Egypt, I promise, I will be wishing your eyes could be my eyes, and taking hundreds of photos in hopes that they can hold you over until you're able to make the trip yourself. Just do me a favor -- just remember something for me, anytime you miss me -- close your eyes, little sis, and I'll be there.

Mom and Dad, you have literally been the wind in my sails so many times throughout my life, but especially in the past few years, when the storms of life have, for me, been the strongest. I will every day be grateful for your love, your support, your encouragement of me and my dreams, your interest in my happiness, and your hands and hearts which you continually extend to me. Especially in my adult years when most people my age are living far from home, you opened your doors to me and blessed me with the opportunity be near you again. This was an experience that I did not expect, but especially at this very moment, can say that I fully appreciate. Living at home has had its challenges, and I'm sure I brought more than a few to your front door. But I can't think of any place I would have rather spent the past nearly two years than here. There have been a lot of life changes in that time. You've seen me go through a lot of adjusting, exploring, seeking new challenges, new opportunities, and finding that some of them in the end just weren't the right thing for me. You've seen my excitement at new beginnings and my sadness as life has brought unexpected endings. But through everything, you have stood by me. And now, despite your own discomfort with watching me go away to strange, unfamiliar places where I'll be far from your protection, you rejoice with me in the coming of this chapter of my life, and send with me your pride in the person that I have become, and your prayers that I will find the happiness I seek. From two people I love as parents and dear friends, I truly couldn't ask for more.

I guess this has become some kind of a swan song. I hope you'll forgive any tears this evokes -- I shed some of my own while writing this, as reality started to seep in. I'm going to try to turn around this somber tone and leave you with some of my favorite quotes that relate to travel, to taking journeys, and to living life to the fullest, because THIS is what I want you to think of when you ask yourself why I would ever choose to spend my own money and my own time (two things I most assuredly will NOT get back) and wander all over the world. These are my reasons. And for the dreams in your heart that you choose to pursue, they will be yours.

Pleasant journeys to you all.

~Melanie

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." -Mark Twain

"There are only two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. The other is as though everything is a miracle." -Albert Einstein (1879-1955)

"Every exit is an entry somewhere else." -Tom Stoppard

"We should consider every day lost in which we do not Dance at least once" -Nietzsche