Paris is for Lovers (Museum-Lovers, that is)

PARIS, FRANCE -- May 16, 2006
(a collection of impressions)

My grand plans were shot out of the water today when I awoke to gray skies and a light rain falling over Paris. The weather forcast which had predicted little other than solid rain for the next five days was proving to be spot-on -- at least for today. I scowled at an indiscriminate rain cloud, as if he were solely responsible for wrecking my plans, and then went about packing my day bag to head into the city. Rain or no rain, here I come.

I suppose I might be forced to visit more than a museum or two today. But then, that shouldn't be too terrible in a city like Paris. My first stop was the Sacre Coeur, Church of the Sacred Heart -- a well-cherished cathedral that stis high on the hill of Montmartre overlooking the city. By the time I left the church, the rain had calmed down to an occasional sprinkle. I started feeling hopeful.

*Metro to Notre Dame, massive, yet cozy - not austere like many other churches. Priest shuffled to altar, his long white robe flowing as he stepped quietly down the corridor. He began singing to a hushed crowd, his voice reverberating through the massive corridors of the cathedral. It was a simple voice, no elaborate vibrato, but the pure quality was so sweetly beautiful, it moved me to tears.

*Walked along the Seine, on Isle de Cite, and then to Isle de St. Louis, apparently best ice cream shop in all of Paris, but the caramel concoction I paid nearly 5 Euros for was too sickeningly sweet for my taste. I balk as I realize I don't often pay half that much for an ice cream cone back home. C'e la vie!

*St. Chappelle - closed. Walked to Musee d'Orsay - closed. And same for Rodin. Apparently Monday isn't the best museum day! Instead, walked further south to a few lesser-knwon chapels, including St. Sulpice (from DaVinci Code fame), before enjoying a leisurely walk through the beaituflu Jardin Luxembourg. Local sprawled out on lawn chairs and park benches, an energetic game of tennis going on. A woman sorting her mail with both legs propped up on a neighboring chair. A table surrounded by old men playing chess. A mother nudging her baby's stroller into a slow rock.

*Louvre - finally! one not closed! This high-profile, classy collection of art ranging from the Etruscans and ancient Egyptians to Renaissance masters DaVinci and Botticelli. Mona Lisa. Madonna on the Rocks. Winged Victory of Samothrace!!

*Walking along Champs Elysees, through the Tuileries Garden, toward Arc de Triomphe. Interrupted en route by two very different characters -- one, a shy Parisian who insisted I was an American moviestar undercover, refusing to give him my real name lest the Paparazzi surround me and follow me mercilessly.
He serenaded me with some little French song, and I recipro- cated with the only American song that came to mind -- Somewhere Over the Rainbow... hello, 1950's!! Couldn't I think of anything more modern than that?? The second, a horribly forward Egyptain living in Paris who, in the course of 10 minutes, had fallen in love with me and wanted to move with me back to America. My biggest mistake: speaking a few words of Arabic to him after learning he was Egyptian -- it was all downhill from there.

*Finally ended a long afternoon with a game of hide-and-seek while trying to locate Seb, my CS host for the next 3 nights. Almost got left stranded because city-slicker was up to his eyeballs with impatience by the time we finally connected. A busy -- and successful -- account manager for Peugot automotives (a French company), he nearly left me high and dry after I kept him waiting for too long at our agreed-upon metro stop (but I blame the guy who told me, after I started questioning my whereabouts, that the metro stop I wanted was futher down the road... I was in the right place to begin with. I've got to learn to rely on my instinct a little more.)

*All smoothed over after a delicious, quick dinner of crepes with cheese and mushrooms (yes, that's right -- they're much more versatile than the powdered-sugar-and-jam toppings we do back home), followed by drinks with friends at a little Dutch pub nearby. Everyone was friendly, and made me feel at home by attempting to engage in English conversation. My preconceived notions of snobby Parisians shaming me for my pitiful lack of even the most basic French went out the window!

~Melanie