Wednesday, May 3, 2006

The Best of Views, the Worst of Men

SAN SEBASTIAN, SPAIN -- May 3, 2006

Feeling a bit more rested today, I first stopped at a small market where I bought a huge bag of oranges. The medicine I had begun taking didn't seem to be doing much for me, and I figured an overdose of Vitamin C wasn't a bad idea.

I decided to attack Monte Urgull, one of two mountains hugging each end of the crescent- shaped beach. A series of interweaving trails led up the mountainside and offered some beautiful lookouts to the Bahia de la Concha (the body of water which San Sebastian encircles) and a small island, Isla de Santa Clara, in the middle of the blue water. I climbed to the top of the mountain, where a military fort, complete with cannons and lookout posts, offered picturesque views of the deep blue waves, the beachfront, the city skyline, and rolling mountains beyond. A tall statue of Christ, visible from nearly any point along the beachfront, capped the fort.

I picnicked on an old bench over- looking Playa Ondaretta, where I napped/ sunbathed yesterday, and then descended to the other well-known beach, Playa de la Concha, for another day of sun and relaxation. Today was quite a bit cloudier and cooler, which meant the beachfront was a bit more tranquil. I spent the better part of the afternoon camped out in the spotty sunshine, eyes closed, just enjoying the peace of doing absolutely nothing.

When the sun went into permanent hiding, I relocated to the promenade above the beach, watching the world go by as I feasted on oranges.

My fingers were sticky, and a pile of orange peels was growing near my feet, when a friendly stranger walked past and said "hello" in English. For whatever reason, I responded, and spent the next couple of hours with a Frenchman named Samir, on holiday in San Sebastian.

We walked to Parta Vieja, the old part of the city, where the streets are lined with cafes and restaurants. He had deceived me with his English "hello," because from then on the conversation was bits and pieces of French, German, and Spanish, none of which were mutually understood. He treated me to an helado (ice cream), and then started putting the moves on. What is it with these European men? It seems like every guy I meet tries to sandwich a three-month relationship into twenty minutes. It would be one thing if I had been even mildly attracted to the guy. But mostly I just went along for the company. It wasn't long before we parted ways, and I cursed at him behind his back as I walked off in my own direction.

A few hours later, I was back at the train station, boarding for my night journey to Barcelona. This was to be my last stop in Spain, and as many great things as I had heard about the fair city, I was hoping it would live up to my expectations.... because Samir aside, San Sebastian was going to be hard to top.

~Melanie Posted by Picasa

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