Ramparts and Arabian Rhapsodies

ESSOUIRA, MOROCCO -- April 14, 2006

Essouira turned out to be a very enjoyable place to spend a few days. A small-ish port city on the Atlantic coast, its whitewashed medinas, salty air, rocky shore, and cannon-decorated ramparts give it an earthy, low-key feel.

Highlights include:

*On the drive north from Imsouane, passing goats climbing trees for their vegetarian lunch, as well as groves of the arghan tree, indigenous to this area. Farmers bottle the oil that comes from this tree, as it is well-loved for the health benefits it provides.

*Taking a camel trek along the shore with Ali, and exploring some ruins at the far end of the beach. Staring into the shadowy pockets of the rock, crusted with barnacles where the sun never reaches.

*Wandering through the port, staring out at all the fishing boats that were docked and reeked of fish

*Walking along the labyrythine alleys and streets of Essouira's medina, a thousand and one shops and twice as many vendors ready and willing to make a good price for you.

*Stopping to buy some peanut candy for a roadside stand, and enjoying its sticky-sweet taste as I continued on.

*Being pulled into a small Moroccan musical instrument shop by a young guy ready to pledge his undying love after falling in love with me (or was it just my eyes?) when he saw me walk by. Enjoying a very authentic, private concert with the three musicians who ran the shop. A bit weird... but these are the moments that make Morocco like nowhere else I've ever been.

*Standing on the ramparts in Essouira at 4:00AM (my first time here, after arriving in the middle of the night with Ali and Adir)... the absolute stillness of the place as we peered out across the midnight-blue Atlantic waters and the stars twinkling brilliantly overhead.

*Meeting Said, a Moroccan guy my age, on holiday in Essouria. We later had tea and couscous with chicken for lunch with his very tall friend Wahaid.... and this is the beginning yet another adventure...

~Melanie