Going Underground: Top-of-the-Line London

LONDON, ENGLAND --- March 25-27, 2006

London... fair city of queens and palaces, towering monuments and bridges that span revered rivers... capital of a country both proud and proper, known the world over for its historic conquests and modern civility. I was fortunate to spend three hypnotic nights in London, where the sights of the city took a backseat to life from a local vantage point. With Alex, lifetime Londoner, as my host, I saw a side of London that the traditional traveler would miss without even knowing. And in hindsight, I'd say I got the much better end of the deal.

I arrived quite late Friday evening by bus, after a rather long conversation with a very inquisitive Oriental woman who wanted to know all about the Mormon religion. I'm not even sure how it came up -- I think I told her I had a brother living in Peru right now as a missionary. I was tired out by the time the bus pulled into the station! It had been raining all day almost, and was raining still as I walked the 30 minutes from the bus depot to the place I would call home for the next three days. Upon arrival, I was sopping wet. I was quickly learning that London is more or less synonymous with rain, and that sunshine is somewhat of a rarity. So, I decided that it was time to lay off heavy usage of the camera, and just SEE Londonwith my own eyes. (Besides gray buildings and even grayer skies don't make the most attractive photos).

And although London truly does have some tourist treasures (not just the Crown Jewels), exploring them on my own terms and at my own pace, while perhaps a sacrifice in quantity, was for me a superior experience.

After a taste of London nightlife, I enjoyed my first real opportunity to sleep in Saturday morning. The falling rain outside was the white noise I needed to catch up on some much-needed rest. I took the metro to Westminster Abbey and spent the next several hours exploring the city on foot. I eventually found my way through some beautiful parks (St. James Park and Green Park), both with budding daffodils, finally arriving at Buckingham Palace. From there I meandered north, passing streetside artists displaying their masterpieces for purchase.

I took the tube (NOT the metro... and NOT the subway -- a subway is an underground walkway) to Piccadilly Circus, London's unofficial Times Square. I continued on to the Tower Bridge and St. Katherine's Dock, nothing particularly famous, but a nice enough place to wait out the pelting rain. Finally, dark settled over the city, and I caught a glimpse of the Tower Bridge lit up at night... impressive to say the least.


Other highlights include seeing the Rosetta Stone, Egyptian artifacts and Parthenon sculptures on display at the British Museum, which proudly showcases the spoils of its far-reaching conquests. And Covent Garden, probably my favorite place in all of London. This pedestrian-only covered market is home to jolly taverns and pubs, lingering locals, and a diverse mix of entertainers, from the professional string-quartet variety to the mimes doing handstands before an applauding crowd. Unicyclists, clowns, anyone and everyone can find ready entertainment here.

My last evening in London was topped by the most lavish dinner I have ever had in my life! Ceviche, imported Argentine ribeye steak, cooked medium-rare, with a succulent porcini mushroom sauce, a side of grilled mushrooms, and a sampling of London's best beverages.

I left London having vastly satisfied my thirst for all things expensive... though I must admit, I depart for Morocco with some fear and trepidation... this African nation marches to the beat of a different drum, speaks languages all of which are foreign to me, and for the first time ever in my travels, I venture forth without so much as a reservation to my name -- only a vague idea of what I want to see and how long I plan to see (and even those two factors are susceptible to a fair amount of change).

Africa, here I come!

~Melanie