Highs and Lows in Imsouane

IMSOUANE & TAMRI, MOROCCO -- April 12-13, 2006

Ali, Adir, and I arrived in Essouira at 4AM, but after having no luck at finding accomodations, slept for a short three hours before waking again to continue to the small fishing village of Imsouane, another hour and a half down the coast. Imsouane is known to a few European travelers, who come for the excellent surfing waves that this small harbor have in abundance.

It was here we found a small apartment to rent, in the same complex where a young Englishman, Jack, from Cornwall was staying. While we waited for the apartment to be cleaned, we wandered around the harbor to the shoreside, where a small restaurant specializing in the freshest catch of the day was happy to offer us a table.

Naturally, as everything works on a different timetable in Morocco, we told the owner how much fish we wanted to buy, and he sent the fisherman off to catch it. It was a few hours later before the fish had been caught, cleaned, and barbecued tajine-style. When it was finally served, I was baffled by the incredible flavor and texture of this ocean fish. Honestly, I would say it is the best fish I have ever eaten. Well worth the wait.

By now, however, I am running on absolute empty. My 14-hour bus ride from the night before netted me only a couple hours of quality sleep, and added to last night's 3 hours crammed in a sedan with two other people, my body had had it.Having fought a losing battle against a raging urinary tract infection -- on top of traveler's diarrhea -- for the past 10+ days, I began heading into rough seas with a fever that wouldn't stay down. My body was using its last defenses to burn off this infection, and it was wreaking havoc on me.

Even though the temperatures were in the 70's and 80's, I was wearing three layers of clothes, including two sweaters, to combat the chills. My energy levels were depleted, and nearly everything I ate seemed to create more intestinal discomfort. I was beginning to lose my optimism, beginning to find my heart filling with despair.It was at this time that I met Jack, who was kind enough to bring me some medicine and English company. Within minutes, I was passed out, and slept for hours, well into the night.

~Melanie